Oven & Microwave Repair in Irvine & Orange County

Oven and microwave repair in Irvine and across Orange County, with same-day appointments Monday to Saturday. We repair gas and electric wall ovens, double ovens, the oven side of ranges, convection and steam ovens, and built-in, over-the-range, drawer and countertop microwaves: GE, GE Monogram, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Bosch, Viking, Wolf, Thermador, Dacor and every other brand. The diagnostic visit is $79, applied to the repair when you approve it, and you get a firm price before any work starts.

Book Online Call (949) 544-5550

Most oven calls come down to one part: a bake igniter on a gas oven, a bake element or relay board on an electric one, a temperature sensor when the bake is off, or a control board when the display is dead. Most microwave calls are a magnetron, a high-voltage diode or a door switch. The van carries those parts for the major brands, and the technician who answers the phone has replaced them many times. Our customers rate us 5.0 out of 5 on Google across more than 60 reviews.

Ovens and microwaves we repair

Gas and electric single and double wall ovens, and the oven in freestanding and slide-in ranges
Convection ovens, steam and combi-steam ovens, and warming drawers
Built-in luxury ovens: Viking, Wolf, Thermador, GE Monogram, Dacor, Miele, Gaggenau, JennAir and Bosch Benchmark
Over-the-range microwaves with vent fans, built-in and trim-kit microwaves, microwave drawers from Sharp, Wolf and Thermador, and countertop microwaves worth repairing
Speed ovens and combination microwave-convection units

Common oven problems and how we fix them

Gas oven will not heat, or takes forever to light

Likely causes: a weak or failed bake igniter is the cause nine times out of ten. Igniters wear out and still glow, but no longer draw enough current to open the gas safety valve. Less often, the safety valve itself or the control.

Try this first: set the oven to bake and watch through the door. If the igniter glows orange for more than a minute and the burner never lights, the igniter is weak.

How we fix it: we measure the igniter current, replace the igniter and verify the valve opens and the burner lights within seconds, as in this Whirlpool oven in Mission Viejo.

Electric oven will not heat, or only the broiler works

Likely causes: a burned-out bake element, a failed relay on the control board, a failed temperature sensor, a thermal fuse, or one lost leg of the 240-volt supply, which leaves the display on but the elements cold.

Try this first: look at the bake element with the oven on; a blister, a break or a bright spot means it has failed. Reset the oven breaker fully off and on.

How we fix it: we test the element, the sensor and the board outputs and replace what failed. A control board replacement in Santa Ana is a typical example when the element itself is good.

Oven temperature is off, or bakes unevenly

Likely causes: a drifting temperature sensor, a control that needs calibration, a convection fan that stopped, a door gasket or hinge that lets heat out, or on gas ovens an igniter that lights late every cycle.

Try this first: put an oven thermometer in the center and check it after 20 minutes at 350°F. Most ovens swing 25°F either side of the set point during a cycle; a steady 50°F error is a sensor or calibration problem.

How we fix it: we measure the sensor resistance, replace the sensor or calibrate the control, fix the convection fan or the door seal, and verify with a thermometer, as in this Viking oven thermostat repair.

Error code on the display, or oven door locked after self-clean

Likely causes: F-codes usually point to the temperature sensor, the door lock motor or switch, a stuck key on the touch panel, or the control board. A door that stays locked after self-clean is a lock motor or switch that did not reset, or a control that still reads the oven as hot.

Try this first: turn the breaker off for five minutes and back on. If the door is locked, make sure the oven has fully cooled before trying again, and do not force the door.

How we fix it: we read the code, test the sensor, the lock and the panel, and replace the failed part. We also tell you plainly that self-clean cycles are the most common cause of a dead oven control; many technicians advise against using them on ovens with electronic controls.

Oven display dead, or oven will not turn on

Likely causes: a failed control board or its power supply, a thermal fuse, a blown line fuse, or the breaker.

Try this first: check the breaker and, on a range, whether the cooktop still works; if it does, the oven has power and the control has failed.

How we fix it: we test the board and replace it. If a board is no longer available for an older luxury oven, we tell you before you spend money on the visit, and we can often source rebuilt boards.

Common microwave problems and how we fix them

Microwave runs but does not heat

Likely causes: a failed magnetron, high-voltage diode, capacitor or transformer, or a door switch that lets the timer run but keeps the high-voltage circuit off.

Try this first: nothing beyond checking the door closes firmly. The high-voltage capacitor holds a lethal charge after the microwave is unplugged, so this repair is for a technician.

How we fix it: we discharge the capacitor, test the magnetron, diode and switches, and replace the failed part, then leak-test the door. See the GE Monogram microwave magnetron replacement.

Microwave completely dead

Likely causes: a blown line fuse, usually caused by a failed door switch or interlock, a failed control board, or a thermal cutout.

Try this first: check the outlet and the breaker. On an over-the-range microwave, the outlet is inside the cabinet above it.

How we fix it: we replace the fuse and the part that blew it, usually a door switch, so it does not blow again.

Sparking or arcing inside

Likely causes: a burned waveguide cover, metal or foil in the cavity, a chipped rack support, or a failing magnetron.

Try this first: stop using it until the cause is found. Remove any metal, and look at the small mica cover on the side wall for burn marks.

How we fix it: we replace the waveguide cover, repair the cavity paint, or replace the magnetron.

Over-the-range vent fan, light or turntable not working

Likely causes: a failed fan motor, a failed turntable motor or coupler, a burned-out light socket, or a failed membrane switch for those functions.

Try this first: check that the turntable ring and coupler are seated, and that the fan filter is clean.

How we fix it: we replace the motor, socket or switch, and the whole unit is worth repairing because a built-in or over-the-range microwave is expensive to replace and install.

Oven and microwave repairs we have written up

Some of our Orange County oven and microwave jobs become short case notes on the blog, with the symptom, the cause and the part that fixed it.

Whirlpool Oven Not Heating: Bake Igniter Fix (October 2026), Mission Viejo
Oven Not Heating? Bad Control Board Fix in Santa Ana (July 2026), Santa Ana
GE Monogram Microwave Not Heating: Magnetron Fix (July 2026)
Viking Oven Not Holding Temperature? Thermostat Fix (May 2024)

What an oven or microwave repair costs in Orange County

Every visit starts with a $79 diagnostic. That covers the trip and the diagnosis, and it is applied to the repair when you approve it. After the diagnosis you get one firm price for the part and the labor, and that price does not change once the work starts. If the appliance is not worth repairing, we say so and you pay only the $79.

Oven, range and cooktop repair prices

Repair	Typical price, parts and labor
Bake or broil element	$180 to $320
Gas oven igniter	$200 to $350
Temperature sensor	$160 to $280
Burner spark igniter or switch	$160 to $300
Spark module	$200 to $350
Convection fan motor	$220 to $400
Oven gas safety valve	$250 to $500
Door hinges or gasket	$180 to $320
Electronic control board	$300 to $700
Induction power board or coil	$350 to $800

Microwave repair prices

Repair	Typical price, parts and labor
Door switch and fuse	$150 to $280
Turntable motor	$150 to $250
High-voltage diode or capacitor	$200 to $350
Magnetron	$250 to $450
Over-the-range vent fan motor	$200 to $350
Keypad or control board	$250 to $500

Typical Orange County ranges for parts and labor on common models; the service call is $79 and is applied to any of them. Built-in, professional and commercial units, and parts that have to come from the manufacturer, can run higher. You get the exact written price after the diagnosis and before any work starts.

What the repair costs depends on the part. Igniters, bake elements, temperature sensors, thermal fuses, door switches, microwave fuses and diodes are the affordable end. Magnetrons, door lock assemblies, convection motors and gas safety valves are the middle. Electronic control boards, especially on Viking, Wolf, Thermador and Monogram, are the expensive end, and we tell you where your repair sits before you decide.

Seniors and veterans get 20% off, and repeat customers get 15% off. Mention it when you book.

Repair or replace?

A wall oven is built into cabinetry and sized to the cutout, so replacement often means a carpenter as well as a new oven; repair is the sensible route for almost any failed part on a wall oven, and for decades on a Viking, Wolf, Thermador or Monogram. A built-in or over-the-range microwave is worth repairing for the same reason. A ten-year-old countertop microwave usually is not, and we will say so on the phone rather than charge you for a visit.

Gas and high-voltage safety

A gas oven that smells of gas before it lights, or lights with a whump, is burning late because of a weak igniter, and that is a repair to do promptly. A microwave stores a lethal charge in its capacitor even when unplugged. Both are jobs for a technician with the right meter, not a video and a screwdriver.

How an oven or microwave repair visit goes

Book. Call (949) 544-5550 or book online. Same-day appointments are available across Orange County, Monday to Saturday.
Diagnose. The technician tests the ignition or heating circuit, the sensor and the control, or discharges and tests the microwave’s high-voltage circuit. The $79 diagnostic is applied to the repair.
Approve. You get a firm price for parts and labor before anything is replaced.
Repair. Igniters, elements, sensors, switches and magnetrons for the major brands are on the van, so most repairs are completed on the first visit. Boards and luxury-brand parts are usually installed the next business day.
Warranty. Parts and labor on the repair are under warranty. If the same problem comes back within 90 days, the return visit has no diagnostic fee.

Oven and microwave brands we repair

GE, GE Profile, GE Monogram, Café, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Kenmore, Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Viking, Wolf, Sub-Zero, Dacor, Miele, JennAir, Bertazzoni, Fisher & Paykel, Sharp and Panasonic. Brand pages: Viking, Bosch, KitchenAid, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire and Maytag.

Oven and microwave repair across Orange County

We are based in Irvine and cover the whole county. Recent oven jobs came from Mission Viejo and Santa Ana, and we take oven and microwave calls every week in Irvine, Newport Beach, Tustin, Costa Mesa, Anaheim, Orange, Huntington Beach, Laguna Niguel, Yorba Linda and Fullerton. See all 34 cities we serve.

Oven and microwave repair FAQ

How much does oven repair cost in Orange County?

The diagnostic visit is $79 and is applied to the repair. Igniters, elements, sensors and switches are the affordable end; lock assemblies and gas valves the middle; electronic control boards the expensive end. You get a firm price before any work starts.

Why is my gas oven not heating?

Almost always a weak bake igniter. It still glows but no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve. If the igniter glows for over a minute without the burner lighting, that is the diagnosis, and it is a same-visit repair.

Do you repair Viking, Wolf, Thermador and GE Monogram ovens?

Yes. Built-in luxury ovens are a regular part of our work and are worth repairing for decades. See our Viking repair page.

Is it worth repairing a microwave?

A built-in, drawer or over-the-range microwave, yes: replacing one means a new trim kit or installation. A countertop microwave more than a few years old usually is not, and we will tell you on the phone.

My oven door is locked after self-clean. What should I do?

Let the oven cool completely, then turn the breaker off for five minutes and back on. If it stays locked, the lock motor or switch has failed, and we replace it without damaging the door.

Why does my microwave run but not heat?

Usually a failed magnetron, high-voltage diode or door switch. Because the capacitor holds a dangerous charge, this is a technician repair, and it is usually done in one visit.

Can you calibrate my oven temperature?

Yes. We measure the actual temperature, replace a drifting sensor if that is the cause, and calibrate the control so the oven holds the set point.

What warranty do you give on an oven or microwave repair?

Parts and labor on the repair are under warranty. If the same problem returns within 90 days, the return visit has no diagnostic fee.