On a Whirlpool or Maytag washer, F5E2 (dL, F22) means the lid or door will not lock, F8E1 (LF, F20) means no fill, F9E1 (Ld, F02, F21) means no drain, F0E5 (uL) is an off-balance load, F0E2 (Sd, Sud) is too much foam, F7E1 and F51 are motor and speed-sensor faults, and F1E1 is the main control board. Unplug the washer for a minute, open both supply valves, check the drain hose and the pump filter, close the lid or door firmly and run Rinse and Spin. A code that returns after that is a failed part, and testing it costs less than guessing.
This page is written by a working technician at Cactus Appliance in Irvine, a repair company that works on Whirlpool and Maytag washers across Orange County. Whirlpool Corporation builds Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana and the Kenmore washers whose model number starts with 110 on shared platforms, so the same code means the same thing on all of them. The tables cover top-loaders built since about 2010 (Whirlpool WTW and later Cabrio, Maytag MVW and later Bravos, Amana NTW, Kenmore 110), current front-loaders (Whirlpool WFW, Maytag MHW, Amana NFW), the older Duet, Duet HT, Duet Sport and Duet Steam, Maytag Epic and Epic Z and Maytag 2000, 3000 and 5000 front-loaders, and the direct-drive Cabrio, Bravos and Oasis top-loaders.
Try this first
- Clear the code and cut power. Press Pause or Cancel, then unplug the washer for one minute. A glitch does not return; a real fault does, early in the next cycle.
- Open both supply valves fully. Straighten the hoses and check the screens in the hose ends. Hot and cold swapped causes HC on the direct-drive Cabrio and Bravos and F0E4 on some recent top-loaders.
- Check the drain hose. A few inches into the standpipe, no kink. On most Whirlpool and Maytag front-loaders the pump filter is behind the full lower front panel, not a small door: unplug the washer, take out the screws along the bottom edge, put down towels and unscrew the filter; some models have a small access door instead. Coins and socks there cause more drain codes than failed pumps do.
- Close the lid or door firmly. A sock in the boot or a bent strike stops the lock.
- Redistribute the load. One bath mat alone cannot be balanced; add towels, then run Drain and Spin.
- Use less detergent. A small dose of HE detergent only; foam hides the water level and slows the drain.
How Whirlpool and Maytag washers show errors
A washer with a display shows a code such as F8E1; small displays alternate F8 and E1. The F number is the system (0 load and water conditions, 1 control boards, 2 keypad, 3 sensors, 5 lid or door lock, 6 board communication, 7 motor, 8 fill and dispenser, 9 drain) and the E number is the fault within it. Top-loaders without a display flash the cycle-status lights in a pattern that the tech sheet folded inside the console decodes. The direct-drive Cabrio, Bravos and Oasis top-loaders (2006 to about 2012) use two-letter codes (uL, Ld) and two-digit F codes (F51); later belt-drive washers sold under the Cabrio and Bravos names show F and E codes such as F7E1, so use the first table for those. The first Duets (Duet HT, Maytag Epic) showed a slash (F/02, F/dL), and the Duet Sport, Maytag Epic Z, Maytag 2000, 3000 and 5000 and the 2008-and-later Duet and Duet Steam dropped it (F21, F22). Pause or Cancel clears the display, but the control stores the last codes for the diagnostic mode, so take a photo and note what the washer was doing.
Top-loader codes, about 2010 and newer (Whirlpool WTW and later Cabrio, Maytag MVW and later Bravos, Amana, Kenmore 110)
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| F0E1 / F0E3 | Items in the basket during Clean Washer (F0E1), or an overloaded basket (F0E3). | Take out the load or part of it and restart. |
| F0E2 | Oversuds: foam hides the water level from the control. | Rinse and Spin with no detergent, then use less. A repeat with little detergent is a slow drain (see F9E1). |
| F0E4 | On some recent models only: water too hot for the cycle, usually swapped hoses. | Put hot on hot. With the hoses right, the inlet thermistor (part of the valve assembly) or its wiring. |
| F0E5 | Off balance: the basket could not reach spin speed. | Redistribute the load. A level washer that goes off balance on every load is usually worn suspension rods (or a loose drive block), as in our Maytag rod repair. |
| F1E1 / F1E2 | Main control fault (F1E1) or motor control fault (F1E2), both on the main board. | Unplug one minute. A repeat needs the motor wiring and the board tested. |
| F2E1 / F2E3 | Stuck key (F2E1); user interface and main control do not match, usually after a wrong board (F2E3). | Press each key, dry the console. A repeat is the interface or the right board. |
| F3E1 / F3E2 | Pressure sensor fault (F3E1) or inlet thermistor fault (F3E2). | Unplug one minute. Overfilling or no fill with the code is the sensor or its hose. |
| F5E1 | Lid switch fault: the lid reads open while the washer runs, or on many models the lid was not opened between cycles. | Open and close the lid, clear the strike slot and restart. The switch is in the lid lock; a repeat with the lid opened between cycles is the lock. |
| F5E2 / F5E3 | The lid cannot lock (F5E2) or unlock (F5E3). | Nothing on the lid or in the slot; unplug two minutes to release it. A repeat is the lid lock. |
| F7E1 | Basket speed sensor fault: the optical sensor on the shifter gives no reading. | Unplug one minute. A repeat is the shifter (actuator) or the belt. |
| F7E5 / F7E6 / F7E7 | Shifter did not move (F7E5), motor did not start (F7E6), motor could not reach speed (F7E7). | Try an empty Drain and Spin. A repeat is the actuator, motor, capacitor or belt; a test tells which. |
| F8E1 | Long fill: too little water in the time allowed. | Open both valves, clean the screens. Good pressure and no fill is the inlet valve or pressure sensor. |
| F8E3 | Overflow: the level rose past the limit. | Close the valves and unplug. Stuck inlet valve or wrong sensor reading; call first. |
| F9E1 | Long drain. | Hose height and kinks, then Drain and Spin. A repeat is a sock in the pump or a failed pump. |
Front-loader codes, 2012 and newer (Whirlpool WFW, Maytag MHW, Amana NFW)
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| F0E1 / F0E3 | Items in the drum during Clean Washer, or an overloaded drum. | Remove the load or part of it and restart. |
| F1E1 / F1E2 | Main control or motor control fault. | Unplug one minute; a repeat is tested at the harness, then the board. |
| F2E1 | Stuck key. | Press each key; one that stays stuck is the interface. |
| F3E1 / F3E2 | Pressure sensor or water temperature sensor fault. | Unplug; a repeat is the sensor or its hose. |
| F5E1 | Door switch fault: the door is not seen closed. | Close firmly, clear the boot; a repeat is the door lock, which holds the switch. |
| F5E2 / F5E3 | The door cannot lock or unlock. | Unplug two minutes to free it. A repeat is the lock, the part in our Brea and Costa Mesa repairs. |
| F6E1 / F6E2 | Communication error between the boards. | Unplug; a repeat is a harness, a wet connector or a board. |
| F7E1 | Motor drive fault: the motor did not run or its speed could not be read. | A repeat needs the motor, its sensor and the motor control tested. |
| F8E1 | No water, or too little in time. | Valves and screens; with good pressure, the inlet valve. |
| F8E2 | Dispenser fault: the motorized dispenser did not reach position. | Clean the drawer channels; a repeat is the dispenser motor. |
| F9E1 | Long drain. | Clean the pump filter behind the lower panel; a repeat is the drain pump. |
Older front-loader codes (Duet and Duet HT, Maytag Epic; Duet Sport and Duet Steam, Maytag Epic Z, 2000, 3000 and 5000)
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| FH / F20 | No water detected entering. | Valves, screens, pressure; then the inlet valve, flowmeter or pressure switch. |
| F02 / F21 | Long drain. | Pump filter behind the lower panel; then the drain pump. |
| F01 / F14 | Central control unit (CCU) memory error. | Unplug one minute; a repeat is the CCU. |
| F05 / F24 | Water temperature sensor out of range. | The thermistor or its wiring. |
| F06 | Drive motor tachometer error. | The tachometer on the motor, the motor or the harness. |
| F07 / F15 / F31 | Motor control unit (MCU) fault. | Unplug; a repeat needs the MCU tested. |
| F09 / F27 | Overflow. | Close the valves and unplug; the inlet valve or pressure switch. |
| F11 / F28 | CCU to MCU communication error. | Unplug; a repeat is the harness between the boards or a board. |
| F13 / F30 | Dispenser system error. | Clean the drawer; then the dispenser motor. |
| F22 / F26 / F29 | Door lock failed (F22), door switch not seen, or the door not opened for three cycles in a row (F26), door will not unlock (F29). | Clear the boot, unplug two minutes; a repeat is the door lock. |
| F33 | Drain pump drive error. | Clean the filter; a pump that never hums is the pump or its wiring. |
| Sud / F35 | Suds lock; with F35, the analog pressure sensor reads wrong. | Rinse and Spin with no detergent. F35 with little foam is the pressure sensor, a known failure on Duet Steam and Maytag 5000 models. |
Older top-loader codes (direct-drive Cabrio, Bravos and Oasis, 2006 to about 2012)
| Code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| LF | Long fill. | Valves and screens; then the inlet valve. |
| Ld | Long drain. | Hose height and kinks; then the drain pump. |
| lid | Lid open when the cycle needs it closed, or the switch cannot see it. | Close the lid; if it stays, the lid switch or lock. |
| Sd | Suds detected. | Rinse and Spin with no detergent. |
| oL / uL | Overloaded (oL) or unbalanced (uL). | Reduce or redistribute; uL on every load is usually worn suspension rods. |
| dL / dU | Lid lock did not lock (dL) or unlock (dU). | Clear the slot, unplug two minutes; a repeat is the lid lock. |
| HC | Hot and cold hoses reversed. | Swap them at the washer. |
| PF / Int | Power failed (PF) or the cycle was interrupted (Int). | Press Start to resume. Not faults. |
| rL | Items detected during Clean Washer. | Remove the load and restart. |
| F1 | Primary control failure. | Unplug; a repeat is the control board. |
| F51 | Rotor position sensor (RPS) fault, or something jammed between basket and tub. | Look for a sock under the basket rim; then the RPS board on the motor. |
| F50 / F52 / F53 / F54 / F72 | Motor stalled (F50), motor stop failure (F52), motor overheated (F53), motor over-current (F54), basket re-engagement failure (F72). | Let the motor cool, try an empty spin; a repeat needs the motor, its sensor or the basket drive tested. |
Codes vary by model and production year, and the same code can have several causes: F9E1 is a sock as often as a pump. The tech sheet and the owner’s manual for your model number are the definitive list. Only an on-site test confirms the part, and we test before anything is ordered.
What the common codes turn out to be on a service call
F5E2, dL and F22: the lid or door will not lock
Likely causes: a lock with a worn solenoid or a broken hook, a bent strike, a sock in the boot, or a main control board that no longer sends the lock command.
Try this first: unplug for two minutes, clear the strike slot, close gently and restart. On a top-loader or most 2012-and-newer front-loaders, a click with the code is the switch in the lock; no click is the coil or the board. The older Duet-era door locks are thermal (PTC) locks that take a few seconds to engage and do not click, so on those only a test tells.
How we fix it: we test the lock and replace it when it has failed, as in our Brea door lock and Costa Mesa latch jobs.
F9E1, Ld and F21: water left in the drum
Likely causes: coins or a hairpin in the impeller, a filter packed with lint, a drain hose pushed so far into the standpipe that it seals the pipe and the pump works against back pressure, or a pump with a dead winding.
Try this first: clean the pump filter, pull the hose up, and run Drain and Spin with no detergent.
How we fix it: we run the pump under power, clear the hose and replace the pump when it is the cause, as in our Kenmore drain pump repair and the pump and sensor job in clothes wet after the spin.
F0E5 and uL: off balance on every load
Likely causes: suspension rods that have lost their damping, a washer that is not level, a loose basket or a cracked drive block, worn shocks on a front-loader.
Try this first: level the washer and run a medium load of towels. If the basket still bangs, stop; another month of it can crack the tub.
How we fix it: we replace the rods as a set, check the drive block and the bearing, and run a full spin before we leave. The Maytag banging during spin job shows worn rods.
F8E1, LF and F20: no fill or a slow fill
Likely causes: a valve not fully open, screens packed with grit, an inlet valve with a failed coil or a clogged seat, or a pressure sensor (or a kinked or clogged pressure hose) that never sees the water level rise.
Try this first: listen at the start. A hum with little water is the screens or the supply; silence is the valve or the control.
How we fix it: we measure the pressure, test each coil and the sensor, and replace the valve when it is the cause. The same job on another brand is our Tustin inlet valve repair.
Stay safe. Unplug the washer or switch off its breaker before you open the lower panel or reach behind the console; the pump and the motor control carry line voltage and the base is usually wet. Never defeat a lid lock or a door lock to make a spin run. Scorching at the plug, a burning smell or water inside the console means power off and call.
When a code means a part has failed
The service call is $79 and covers the trip and the diagnosis. We confirm the failed part by testing it, not by reading the code: an F9E1 can be a pump or a sock, an F5E2 a lock or a board. You get a written price for parts and labor before any work starts, and the $79 is applied to it when you approve. Common parts such as lid locks and drain pumps are usually on the van; others, such as motors, boards and pressure sensors, come from local distributors, usually the next business day. The repair is under warranty on parts and labor, and if the same fault returns within 90 days the return visit has no service-call fee.
Whirlpool and Maytag washer repairs we have written up
- Whirlpool Washer Door Lock Broken: A Brea Repair (October 2026), Brea
- Maytag Washer Banging During Spin: Rod Fix (October 2026), Orange County
- What Causes a Whirlpool Washer Door Latch Failure? (September 2026), Costa Mesa
- Kenmore Washer Not Draining? Drain Pump Fix (August 2026), Orange County
- Clothes Wet After Spin? Drain Pump and Sensor Fix (May 2024), Orange County
Whirlpool and Maytag washer error code FAQ
How do I reset a Whirlpool or Maytag washer?
Press Pause or Cancel, then unplug the washer for one minute. If the code returns in the next cycle, the fault is real and no reset will clear it.
What does F5E2 mean on a Whirlpool washer?
The lid or door could not lock after several tries. Clear the strike slot, close firmly and restart; if it repeats, the lock assembly has failed, a common washer repair.
What does F8E1 or LF mean on a Maytag washer?
A long fill: not enough water in the time allowed. Open both supply valves and clean the hose screens; with good pressure and no fill, the inlet valve or the pressure sensor is the usual cause.
What does F9E1, Ld or F21 mean?
A long drain: water was still in the drum when the drain time ran out. Clean the pump filter, check the drain hose and retry; a code that stays is something in the pump or a failed drain pump.
Can I keep using the washer with a code showing?
With F0E5, uL, F0E2, Sd or a one-time F8E1 you can usually finish the load after the checks above. With F8E3, F09, F27 or water on the floor, close the supply valves and stop.
How much does it cost to fix a Whirlpool or Maytag washer error code?
The service call is $79, applied to the repair. A hose, a screen or a pump filter is the affordable end; a lid lock, door lock, inlet valve, drain pump or suspension rods the middle; a motor, control board or bearing the expensive end. You approve a written price before work starts.
Do you repair Whirlpool and Maytag washers in Orange County?
Yes. Cactus Appliance repairs Whirlpool, Maytag, Amana and Kenmore washers in Irvine, Tustin, Costa Mesa, Brea, Newport Beach, Santa Ana, Anaheim and every other Orange County city, same day, seven days a week.
